STUNNING STONES AND SAVOIR-FAIRE

BY LAURIE BROOKINS

The latest high-jewelry collections from Chanel, Cartier, Piaget and other iconic houses emphasize the beauty of diamonds and gemstones amid exceptional handcraft.

Van Cleef & Arpels

High jewelry is the widely accepted pinnacle of handcraft in the luxury sector, a marriage of spectacular stones, exceptional artistry and painstaking workmanship, all woven through the historic design codes of legendary brands. That masterly blend from houses that include Cartier, Piaget, Mikimoto, Graff and Chanel is at the heart of each haute joaillerie design, one-of-a-kind pieces that often showcase diamonds and rare gemstones in impressive carat weights. That latter element is among the reasons high-jewelry collections typically require up to three years from concept to completion.

Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of high jewelry is the question that often arises while viewing a piece crafted to accentuate a sizable or extremely rare diamond or gemstone: Which came first, the stone or the design? Most of today’s revered jewelry houses tend to be mum on that answer, though it’s still fun to wonder when you gaze at a statement necklace or ring highlighting an immense yellow diamond or a Paraiba tourmaline that tops 40 carats. It’s also notable that, not unlike haute couture as a design laboratory for ready to wear, high jewelry often serves as a jumping-off point for the design themes of a house’s future fine-jewelry collections.

In addition to the 10 pieces featured here, South Coast Plaza clients also will enjoy the opportunity to view the latest in fine and high jewelry, as well as a selection of status watches, when the retail destination releases its Fine Jewelry and Timepieces lookbook on September 4.

SOUTH COAST PLAZA

FALL 2023 HIGH JEWELRY EDIT

BUCCELLATI

LEVEL 2, NORDSTROM WING
714.481.1130

Founded in Milan in 1919, Buccellati continues more than a century later to excel at crafting intricate metalwork, embellished with stunning stones.

That history is highlighted in “Mosaico,” the house’s latest high-jewelry collection, which puts a spotlight on the handwork required to mix 18-karat white and yellow gold in incredibly detailed, Byzantine-inspired motifs.

Buccellati Mosaic Band

This Mosaic band, embellished with round brilliant and emerald-cut diamonds, is a terrific example. At Buccellati


MIKIMOTO

LEVEL 1, NORDSTROM WING
714.424.5440

Celebrating its 130th anniversary throughout 2023, Mikimoto dove into a natural inspiration for its latest high-jewelry collection: the sea, birthplace of its iconic pearls.

Mikimoto Branched Murex Brooth

Christened “Praise to the Sea,” the collection includes this Branched Murex Brooch, which takes its cue from a species of sea snail, and in this case hides a treasure within its shell: a 15.40-carat tanzanite, surrounded by sapphires, spinels and diamonds. At Mikimoto


TIFFANY & CO.

LEVEL 1, BETWEEN JEWEL AND CAROUSEL COURTS
714.540.5330

Like Mikimoto, Tiffany & Co. also plumbed the depths of the sea to create its latest Blue Book, the moniker the house uses for its high-jewelry collections.

“Out of the Blue” honors the fascination Jean Schlumberger, the jeweler’s legendary and prolific designer, had with every element of the sea, including the jellyfish-inspired brooch seen here.

Tiffany & Co. Jellyfish Brooch

Designed by chief artistic officer Nathalie Verdeille, this brooch evokes the luminescence of jellyfish through its use of moonstones, surrounded by sapphires, tanzanites and diamonds, all set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold. At Tiffany & Co. 


VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

LEVEL 1, JEWEL COURT
714.545.9500

Between the 17th and 19th centuries, it was common for a young man of means to embark on a “grand tour” of cosmopolitan cities once he reached his 21st birthday, burnishing his cultural education by visiting the major museums of Rome, Paris, London and elsewhere, as well as enjoying lessons in riding, dancing and other social graces. (Women also were able to enjoy the practice beginning in the latter part of the 18th century.) 

Van Cleef & Arpels has embraced this history with “La Grand Tour,” a 70-piece high-jewelry collection that pays tribute to eight culturally rich locations.

VCA Fleuve de Glace Necklace

This “Fleuve de Glace” necklace takes its cue from the beauty of the Alps, seen in the cushion-cut icy green beryl that totals 48.79 carats, set in 18-karat white and rose gold above a tassel of 228 blue tourmaline beads that total 157.09 carats. This sautoir also includes emeralds, pink sapphires, gray cultured pearls and diamonds and is highly transformable, with the beryl and tassels able to be worn as a brooch, while sections of the pearl necklace also may be worn as bracelets. At Van Cleef & Arpels 


PIAGET

LEVEL 2, CAROUSEL COURT
714.361.2020

For Metaphoria, Piaget’s 52-piece collection of high jewelry and watches, creative director Stéphanie Sivrière says she was inspired by nature, with a particular emphasis on the emotions inspired by the rays of the sun or the flow of a waterfall.

Piaget Adrivea Earrings

The latter is seen in these Adrivea earrings, crafted of 18-karat white gold and embellished with emerald-cut aquamarines and diamonds, surrounded by baguette-cut and round-brilliant sapphires and diamonds. The design is also transformable, allowing the lower drop to be removed. At Piaget 


CHANEL FINE JEWELRY

LEVEL 1, NORDSTROM WING
714.754.7295

Past Chanel high-jewelry collections have been themed to everything from the iconic No. 5 to Coco Chanel’s love of Russian influences and her inaugural foray into diamond designs, which debuted in 1932.

The latest collection pays tribute to the fabric every Chanel fan knows well: bouclé tweed, here interpreted in beautifully woven gold that’s been embellished with diamonds and gemstones.

Chanel Tweed Byzance

This Tweed Byzance Bracelet indeed creates the illusion of fabric in its handcraft of 18-karat yellow gold, an illusion enhanced by the inclusion of white diamonds and beryls. At Chanel Fine Jewelry 


CARTIER

LEVEL 1, BETWEEN JEWEL AND CAROUSEL COURTS
714.540.8231

If three years are required to conceive and craft a high-jewelry collection, then the theme of Cartier’s latest designs evokes multiple meanings.

The collection has been christened “Le Voyage Recommencé,” which translates to “The Journey Begins Again,” a title that would resonate with any of the record-setting number of travelers contemplating European vacations this summer after years of COVID restrictions. But “the journey” also applies to a trip through the wealth of motifs and symbols essential to Cartier’s archives.

Cartier Unda Earrings

These earrings are from the collection’s Unda grouping: Latin for “wave,” pieces in the Unda group are crafted to echo the idea of undulating movement, as seen in this design of 18-karat white gold, embellished with diamonds and cabochon-cut emeralds. At Cartier 


GUCCI

LEVEL 1, BLOOMINGDALE’S WING
714.557.9600

The latest in Gucci high jewelry is the Allegoria collection, inspired by nature via the themes of seasonal hues.

Gucci Allegoria Collection Ring

Intense and unusual color combinations have been a signature of the storied Italian house, and that’s seen in this ring, crafted of 18-karat white gold and featuring an emerald surrounded by pink sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds. At Gucci 


LOUIS VUITTON

LEVEL 2, NORDSTROM WING
714.662.6907

Beautifully matched rubellites and spessartite Mandarin garnets from Nigeria were used to craft this high-jewelry Seeds necklace from Louis Vuitton’s Deep Time high-jewelry collection.

Louis Vuitton Seeds Necklace

Set in 18-karat yellow gold, the rubellites total more than 198 carats, including one 52.75-carat pear-cut pink cabochon tourmaline rubellite as the center stone, while the oval-cut spessartite Mandarin garnets total 77.70 carats. At Louis Vuitton 


DAVID YURMAN

LEVEL 2, BETWEEN JEWEL AND CAROUSEL COURTS
714.444.1080

President and chief creative officer Evan Yurman looked to nature for DY Genesis, his latest high-jewelry collection.

David Yurman Dianthus Drop Earrings

These Dianthus Drop Earrings are crafted in anodized aluminum to create a substantial piece that’s both lightweight and can be infused with vivid color; 18-karat yellow gold and 28-carat green beryls sourced from South Africa complete the design. At David Yurman


GRAFF

OPENING SOON

In 2024 Graff, the famed London-based diamond house, will celebrate the 50th anniversary of the debut of one of its most iconic stones, the Star of Bombay, a stunning fancy yellow diamond that weighed in at 47.39 carats. That history adds a dazzling layer to the house’s latest high-jewelry collection, Sunrise, which is indeed a showcase of yellow diamonds in an exquisite grouping of necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets.

Graff Sunrise Pendant Necklace

The undeniable star of this debut at Graff’s flagship Paris boutique on Rue Saint-Honoré was this high-jewelry pendant necklace, designed to shine a spotlight on a rare fancy intense yellow pear-shaped diamond totaling 30.28 carats, surrounded by yellow and white diamonds totaling 167.8 carats. “Yellow diamonds bring so much joy,” Anne-Eva Geffroy, Graff’s design director, noted at the time of Sunrise’s debut. “It is an honor to be inspired by stones that radiate such beauty.” At Graff – opening soon.


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